The majority of shortcut chicken soup recipes use rotisserie chicken. It’s a convenient hack, but cooked chicken doesn’t absorb flavors very well. On the other hand, sautéing ground chicken in olive oil with garlic, coriander and celery seeds (or fennel seeds and rosemary, or herbes de Provence) creates a deeply complex base. Add the vegetables, then the stock and the noodles for a complete meal that cooks in 30 minutes. You can use egg noodles, cavatelli or alphabet noodles, but you may want to adjust the amount of stock to taste, since they’ll each absorb a different amount of liquid.
• 5tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil • 1pound ground chicken • Salt and black pepper • 4garlic cloves, roughly chopped • 1½teaspoons ground coriander • ½teaspoon celery seeds (optional) • 2celery stalks, halved lengthwise, then sliced ½-inch thick • 1large carrot, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes • 1large shallot, finely chopped • 1tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1 teaspoon dried thyme leaves) • 7 to 8cups chicken stock, plus more as needed • 8ounces dried egg noodles, cavatelli or other small shaped pasta • Crème fraîche, chopped fresh parsley and dill, and lemon zest, for garnish
PREPARATION • Step 1 In a large pot, heat 3 tablespoons oil over medium-high. Add the chicken, season generously with salt and pepper, and cook, breaking up with a wooden spoon, until starting to crumble, about 3 minutes. Add the garlic, coriander and celery seeds (if using), and cook, stirring frequently, until chicken is cooked through, about 2 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, scoop the chicken into a small lidded bowl (to retain moisture); cover and set aside. • Step 2 Add the celery, carrot, shallot, thyme and the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the pot, season with salt and pepper, and cook, stirring, until slicked with fat, 3 minutes. Add the stock (7 cups for a stewlike soup or up to 8 cups for a brothy soup) and bring to a boil over high. • Step 3 Add noodles and cook over medium-high until al dente according to package directions. (If the noodles absorb a lot of liquid, add more broth according to taste.) Add the reserved chicken and any accumulated juices and heat until warmed, then season to taste with salt and pepper. Divide among bowls; top with a spoonful of crème fraîche, a fistful of torn herbs and lemon zest.